DOI: https://doi.org/10.15802/ampr.v0i15.168834

ANDROGYNY IN THE CONTEXT OF CURRENT VISUAL FASHION SPACE: PHILOSOPHICAL AND CULTUROLOGICAL ASPECT

А. M. Tormakhova

Abstract


Purpose of the article is to highlight the peculiarities of the androgyny presentation in current visual culture, in particular in fashion and its philosophical and culturological comprehension. Determination of the leading trends associated with the offset of gender stereotypes and denial of the established separation into the feminine and masculine beginnings is due to the attention to the latest theories, such as transfeminism. Theoretical basis is the works of contemporary authors who develop such concepts as "gender", "gender identity", "androgyne" and move within the limits of the theories of transfeminism and transgenderism. The leading French thinker J. Baudrillard outlines philosophical measurements related to the justification of fashion. The interaction issues of the feminist theory, aesthetics of gender and androgyny, which are manifested in visual images, are presented in the writings of P. Auslander, R. Crepax. Transformation of the androgyny idea is considered in the works of B. Řiháková, F. J. Galarte. S. Stryker, T. Bettcher and J. Halberstam also address the problem of transgenderism and transfeminism in their writings. Originality is to highlight the main aspects associated with actualization of androgyny, its visual presentations in fashion, and the connections with contemporary theoretical discourse. A number of concepts related to the transformation of gender stereotypes have been identified. It was revealed that the logical continuation of changes in society, science and technical development is the actualization of androgyny as an individual’s freedom in self-presentation and self-identification. It was emphasized that during the last century androgyny also serves as the basis for forming new trends in theoretical discourse, in particular, transfeminism, as well as it finds many visual manifestations in fashion and fashion industry. Conclusions contain the results of the study that describes the role of androgyny in the context of today’s culture as a measurement of personal freedom, aimed at avoiding gender stereotypes and the usual dichotomy of masculinity and femininity, which manifests itself in contemporary visual practices.


Keywords


gender; gender stereotypes; androgyny; fashion; visibility; transfeminism

Full Text:

PDF HTML

References


Auslander, P. (2006). Performing glam rock: Gender and theatricality in popular music. Ann-Arbor: University of Michigan Press. (in English)

Baudrillard, J. (2000). L’echange symbolique et la mort. Moscow: Dobrosvet. (in Russian)

Galarte, F. J. (2017). The Crowns of Stuzo clothing: Design, representation, and self-craft. Transgender Studies Quarterly, 4(2), 296-300. doi: 10.1215/23289252-3815081 (in English)

Crepax, R. (2016). The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny: A Feminist Analysis of a Fashion Trend. Thesis submitted for the degree of PhD. In Sociology. University of London, Goldsmiths. (in English)

Eliade, M. (1998). Mefistofel i Androgin. Y. V. Baevskaya, & O. V. Davtyan, Trans. from French. St. Petersburg: Aleteyya. (in Russian)

Halberstam, J. (2018). Trans: A Quick and Quirky Account of Gender Variability (American Studies Now: Critical Histories of the Present). California: University of California Press. (in English)

Kopylova, N. (2013). The idea of androgyny and gender aspects of contemporary culture (Ukrainian context). Ukrainian Culture: The Past, Modern, Ways of Development: Collection of Scientific Papers, 19(2), 263-270. Rivne: Rivnenskyi Derzhavnyi Humanitarnyi Universytet. (in Ukrainian)

Kopylova, N. (2015). The motifs of androgyny in visual art in the first half of XX cen. Culture of Ukraine: Collection of scientific papers, 48, 108-117. Kharkiv: Kharkiv State Academy of Culture. (in Ukrainian)

Kravets, V. (2013). Genderni doslidzhennia v konteksti hlobalnykh vyklykiv suchasnosti. In V. P. Kravets (Ed.), T. V. Hovorun, & O. M. Kikinezhdi et al., Genderni doslidzhennia: Prykladni aspekty: Monohrafiia. Ternopil: Navchalna knyha – Bohdan. (in Ukrainian)

Melnyk, D. (2012). Androgyny utopia in the creativity of Inheborh Bachmann. Visnyk of the Lviv University. Series: Foreign Languages,19, 322-329. (in Ukrainian)

Nester, L. (2012). Fashion and gender in the novel "Tomboy" by Thomas Mainecke. Visnyk of the Lviv University. Series: Foreign Languages, 20(2), 303-308. (in Ukrainian)

Pavlova, O., & Tormakhova, A. (2018). Vizulni praktyky ta komunikatsiia: Kurs lektsii. Kyiv: Kyivskyi Universytet. (in Ukrainian)

Stryker, S., & Bettcher, T. M. (2016). Introduction. Trans/Feminisms. Transgender Studies Quarterly, 3(1-2), 5-14. doi: 10.1215/23289252-3334127 (in English)

Řiháková, B. (2012). Ways of seeing androgyny: Confronting the alternative. Bachelor’s thesis (Department of Social Anthropology). Masaryk University: Brno. (in English)

Woolf, V. (1993). A room of one’s own: And, three guineas. London: Penguin Books. (in English)


GOST Style Citations


Auslander, Ph. Performing Glam Rock: Gender and Theatricality in Popular Music / Ph. Auslander. – Ann-Arbor : University of Michigan Press, 2006. – 272 p.

Бодрийяр, Ж. Символический обмен и смерть / Ж. Бодрийяр. – Москва : Добросвет, 2000. – 387 с.

Galarte, F. J. The Crowns of Stuzo Clothing: Design, Representation, and Self-Craft / F. J. Galarte // Transgender Studies Quarterly. – 2017. – Vol. 4, Iss. 2. – P. 296–300. doi: 10.1215/23289252-3815081

Crepax, R. The Aesthetics of Mainstream Androgyny: A Feminist Analysis of a Fashion Trend : Thesis submitted for the degree of PhD. in Sociology / R. Crepax. – University of London : Goldsmiths, 2016. – 339 p.

Элиаде, М. Мефистофель и Андрогин / М. Элиаде ; [пер. с фр. Е. В. Баевской, О. В. Давтян]. – Санкт-Петербург : Алетейя, 1998. – 374 с. – Серия: Миф, религия, культура.

Halberstam, J. Trans: A Quick and Quirky Account of Gender Variability (American Studies Now: Critical Histories of the Present) / J. Halberstam. – California : University of California Press, 2018. – 144 p.

Копилова, Н. О. Міфологема андрогінності та гендерні аспекти сучасної культури (український контекст) / Н. О. Копилова // Українська культура: минуле, сучасне, шляхи розвитку : зб. нак. пр. : наук. записки Рівнен. держ. гуманіст. ун-ту. – Рівне : РДГУ, 2013. – Вип. 19, Т. IІ. – С. 263–270.

Копилова, Н. О. Мотиви андрогінності в образотворчому мистецтві першої половини ХХ ст. / Н. О. Копилова // Культура України : зб. нак, пр. – Харків : ХДАК, 2015. – Вип. 48. – С. 108–117.

Кравець, В. Ґендерні дослідження в контексті глобальних викликів сучасності / В. Кравець // Ґендерні дослідження: прикладні аспекти : монографія / [В. П. Кравець, Т. В. Говорун, О. М. Кікінежді та ін.] ; за наук. ред. В. П. Кравця. – Тернопіль : Навчальна книга – Богдан, 2013. – C. 9–20.

Мельник, Д. Утопія андрогінності у творчості Інгеборг Бахман / Д. Мельник // Вісник Львівського університету. Серія: Іноземні мови. – 2012. – Вип. 19. – С. 322–329.

Нестер, Л. Мода і гендер у романі Томаса Майнеке "Томбой"/ Л. Нестер // Вісник Львівського університету. Серія: Іноземні мови. – 2012. – Вип. 20, Ч. 2. – С. 303–308.

Павлова, О. Ю. Візульні практики та комунікація: курс лекцій / О. Ю. Павлова, А. М. Тормахова. – Київ : Київський університет, 2018. – 226 с.

Stryker, S. Introduction. Trans/Feminisms / S. Stryker, T. M. Bettcher // Transgender Studies Quarterly. – 2016. – Vol. 3, Iss. 1-2. – P. 5–14. doi: 10.1215/23289252–3334127

Řiháková, B. Ways of seeing androgyny: Confronting the alternative : Bachelor’s thesis (Department of Social Anthropology) : 11.12.12 / Barbora Řiháková. – Masaryk University : Brno, 2012. – 54 р.

Woolf, V. A Room of One’s Own: And, Three Guineas / V. Woolf. – London : Penguin Books, 1993. – 365 p.





Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.